This thread is a long time coming. I built this car over 2 and a half years ago and since then has become the most wonderful car i own. It is the most pleasureable to drive, it has tq'd almost every saturday its been raced and won most of those times. In 2 years it has seen maybe 4 added or changed parts. I could go on and on about how good this car has been to me but ill just move on to the pictures and all that other crap.
I just recently moved to the 3rd body on the car. Same as the last 2, a McAllister racing "luminator", designed for use with the old rc10 lowering kit they sold bitd, they will still pop them on request. It has such a dramatic (positive) areodynamic effect on the car that my setup does not work at all without it, it has zero grip without it.
The last body was an original production body, it didnt last long, the lexan used back then was thinner and i have a tendency to come up behind people too fast in this car, they spin out trying to move and i play follow the leader. All the same it was a great looking body.
before that was the original body i did up for the car, was retired after i had won a bare footed 50 lap hot dog race (eat a hot dog, put on your shoes and sprint to the drivers stand and run 50 laps)
not much else to say about the body, besides some minor variations in the way i cut them and i did up the rear air dams they are the same thing.
The chassis is much the same story, after about a month long project with lots of fiddling and a few different parts i came up with what has essentially been the same. Even the setup hasnt changed much at all in 2 years. A few tweeks here and there are all ive needed to stay competative with track condition changes.
2013
2015
some things to note, i had a bearing sieze recently in my speed passion 17.5 endbell so after trouble shooting the hobbyking 45amp esc and motor to find it i accidentally burned up my esc. im now running a reedy black box 410 with ceramic bearings in the motor (because i can)
a run down on parts:
rear tower is a speed workz(?) blue eagle ls/losi jrx2 oval conversion tower. The front tower is a one-off fiero man job with lower mounts also a one-off i did. The lower front mounts were also my first time really playing with a thread tap. Up until then i just drilled a hole and used a bolt long enough to thread a nut on the orther side.
the front lower mounts were originally plastic but aluminum proved to last longer. (Newer pic)
Steering is being done by a worn out 2nd hand futaba s3003 and hooked up to a set of A&L rc10 bell cranks with rpm 4-40 ends and stock trx steel links (currently rusted to hell). Isnt the fastest setup but it keeps the car from feeling twitchy in the middle of the turn and the rack assembly has proven to be very reliable and smooth. Originally the plan was the yellow classic style A&L bell cranks but the aluminum set had a more workable geometry.
The chassis started life as a clapped out old parts car on the traxxas forums that i grabbed up as soon as i saw them.
gearbox was the same story, i gutted it, dyed it black and stripped the anno off the motor plate. In the box went a steel top gear and a machined aluminum gear with a trx3 black diff gear. Eventually i also went to mip carbite diff balls intended for the rc10gt. the trx 2.14 and the ae 2.60 share the same number of balls in the diff so i got lucky on that'n.
Back up front i added a carbon front arm brace, that generation of traxxas cars (eagle, hawk 2, LS, and trx1) all use these crappy split bulkheads that break the first time you clip something, always at the same mold seam too. This is an easy mod to fix the issue. Had to use longer himge pins too. I believe they are rc10gt front inner pins. It works so well they only were replaced recently because i moved over to strc locking pins. They are still strait as an arrow.
owi g to the nature of my builds my body mounts are a mougly collection. Front bumper/mount is an rpm bumper for the slash 4x4 or jato and the posts are rc10gt, center set are also rc10gt with the newest posts being made on a lathe from delrin at a buddies place. Rears again, associated.
Taking to time now, ill mention the hardware, where i could stainless or aluminum is ised. Reason being, we treat our clay with calcium chloride which rusts the heck out of everything. The hardware strength in a car like this isnt s big of a deal to me as maintnence is.
Not much else to talk about. Its a great little car that has earned a permanant spot in my fleet. Feel free to ask questions yall